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Dualmatic Twin-Lever Hub Variations

• CATEGORIES: Advertising & Brochures, Features • TAGS: This site contains affiliate links for which I may be compensated.

UPDATE: Here’s a related post of a rough history of Dualmatic and Selectro and Husky, as their histories intertwine.

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You’ll note that the patent number 2854111 is the same one connected to this single lever design: https://patents.google.com/patent/US2854111. Read to the end, as this patent number appears connected with an odd looking, Dualmatic-related hub.

This post is all Scott Gilbert’s fault. We got talking about the different color of Dualmatic hub labels on Sunday and, suddenly, my Sunday afternoon vanished into research!

This post leverages the great work from the CJ-2A.com’s dualmatic twin-lever page and the ih8mud hub forum about Dualmatic twin-lever hub variations. For the record, I’ve never owned any of these hubs, so I’m leveraging pics and the internet as best I can. It is a working post. If you have corrections or comments, please let me know!

If only I had each set of hub in front of me I might have a better shot at highlighting the differences (height and faces), but I do not have them. So, I’ll just do my best with the faces and some documentation for dating purposes.

I was going to use the CJ-2A page’s nomenclature, but after studying the different faces, I think it’s better, as I hope you will see, to expand the styles types:

Design A: Recessed center, full ribs, sharp-ended ribs
Design B: Raised center, full-ribs, sharp-ended ribs
Design C: Raised center, full-ribs, round-ended ribs
Design D: Raised center, one-end of both ribs recessed from the edge, all round-ended ribs
Design E: Raised center, both-ends of ribs recessed from the edge, all round-ended ribs
Design W: These were marketed by and stamped as Watson hubs (hence why I call them Watson hubs), but also stamped and sold by third-parties like Sears unstamped and unbranded.

Before we begin with the twin-lever design, let’s look at the single lever design. Dualmatic’s founder Charles Simonsen’s original patent was for a single lever design.

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This photo may highlight why that design didn’t hold up well and why support was needed for the cam levers:

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This photo was found on a G503 forum. You can see that the lever has been highly stressed.

CONJECTURE: If the bending of the single lever was even a somewhat common occurrence, then it would explain the shift to a dual lever, rib-supported design. One of those early designs may have been the Design W or the Watson hub seen at the bottom of the post, but it seems to me that when full of mud and small debris, that loosening the levers would have been difficult. So, my theory is that the next idea was Design A, which is the earliest one documented with a specific date.

DESIGN A: The earliest example of a Dualmatic hub with a date comes in the form of this April 1958 advertisement in Popular Mechanics. For our purposes, this would be Design A. It has full, un-rounded ribs and a recessed interior

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Design A hub with recessed center, full ribs, sharp rib ends.

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Design A hub with recessed center, full ribs, sharp rib ends.

Design A can also be seen in this undated brochure, most likely pre-1963 given the lack of full-size jeeps:

Curiously, Design A was still around in 1964, as evidenced by this 1964 Montgomery Wards catalog ad below, but a new type of style appeared, which I call Design C, with a raised center (for branding I assume) and full, but rounded-ribs (and around as late as August 1965 in a Four Wheeler Ad):

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Designs A & C Dualmatic hubs. Lower pic — Design A hub with recessed center, full ribs, sharp rib ends. Design C Dualmatic hubs with raised center, full ribs, round-ended ribs.

DESIGN C: Here is a better pic of Design C. You’ll note that the sticker branding is colored black. So far, the consensus is that there were three different colors of stickers, black, blue and red. Again, when each was used and why they changed is uncertain:

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Design C Dualmatic hubs with raised center, full ribs, rounded-ended ribs.

DESIGN B: At some juncture, Design B was introduced. Design B had a raised center and full, sharp ribs like Design A. You’ll also note that this has the red center branding sticker: Continue reading

 
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NOS Dualmatic Hubs on eBay

• CATEGORIES: Features, Parts • TAGS: This site contains affiliate links for which I may be compensated.

Scott spotted these NOS Dualmatic hubs on eBay. I am not as familiar with the red stickers, but this looks to be a later version of these lever-activate hubs, solely based on the style of ribs.

View all the information on eBay

“NOS Dualmatic Locking Hubs Willys Jeep 10 Spline, Willys Mb, GPW, CJ2A Cj3a M38. New in the original box, I’m guessing from the 1950’s, or 1960’s. Some storage wear. All mounting bolts are there. Shipping $16”

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1955 CJ-5 Winchester, ID $9000

• CATEGORIES: CJ5, Features • TAGS: This site contains affiliate links for which I may be compensated.

What caught my eye about this one was the unusual hubs. Maybe an early Dualmatic (or dalmatic knock off?

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/328676541631581

“Listing for a friend. 9k OBO”

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Cutlas 1961 Power-Lock and Selective Drive Brochures

• CATEGORIES: Advertising & Brochures, Features • TAGS: This site contains affiliate links for which I may be compensated.

The Form-104 Selective drive brochure I’ve seen previously, but I’ve not seen the 1961 Power-Lock brochure.

This Power-Lock brochure is a tri-fold brochure that folds from 3.5″ x 5.5″ to 10.5″ x 5.5″

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This folded Cutlass Selective drive brochure has a form number of 104, but lacks a date. It is small, only folding in half from 3.5″ x 5.5″ to 7″ x 5.5″

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1942 GPW and Year? CJ-2A Vadito, NM $5000

• CATEGORIES: CJ-2A, GPW (Ford MB) • TAGS: This site contains affiliate links for which I may be compensated.

TJ shared this pair of jeeps that apparently is home to some snakes. Note that the red jeep has a set of Huffman hubs, the first set I’ve seen on a jeep for sale.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/fieldandbarnfinds/permalink/2006037949521043/

“Two army jeeps one Ford one willys both run both were in ww11! Call about prices serious offers accepted”

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Unknown Hubs … Anyone Recognize Them?

• CATEGORIES: Features • TAGS: This site contains affiliate links for which I may be compensated.

I am looking for more information on these hubs. Anyone recognize them?

Austin Smith posted this unusual hub to G503 Facebook. He theorizes they may be a freewheeling hub of some kind, as he can find no way to spin the hubs nor, after disassembling it, did he find any internals to do so.

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This is installed on an Australian jeep. The hubs look similar to a Selectro type, but these have only three nodules around the outside:
selectro-dualmatic-unknown-versionRoger Martin spotted this odd hub on Rick Reilly’s Commando in 2019. This might be a free-wheeling hub:

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A Hubber: Easy Engage’s Device For Hub Management

• CATEGORIES: Features • TAGS: This site contains affiliate links for which I may be compensated.

UPDATE: Marty notes that this is called a “hubber”, a correction from “scubber”.

Barney from Barney’s Jeep Parts shared an image of this Easy Engage device. It’s called a “hubber” (no R) and it’s made of a durable plastic. It’s used to engage certain types of Warn hubs.

He added: “They were a dealership counter accessory on a cardboard display, but were not Kaiser or AMC Jeep. It works perfect if the hubs are properly lubricated or not in a “parking” bind. And, it won’t mar the metal as homemade ones can.”

Scubber-easy-engage-warn-hub-barneys-parts copy

 
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International Harvester Warn-style Hubs? Forestdale, MA $75

• CATEGORIES: Parts • TAGS: This site contains affiliate links for which I may be compensated.

I haven’t run across IH marked hubs with a Warn design. Anyone else seen these?

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1198366567173783/

“International harvester stamped lock out hubs, will fit 10 spline Dana 25 and Dana 27 axles”

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1955 M-38A1 Monticello, UT **SOLD**

• CATEGORIES: M-38A1 • TAGS: This site contains affiliate links for which I may be compensated.

UPDATE: **SOLD** Was $5500.

This has a CJ-5 grille, but an M-38A1 body. The rear has been extended on the body. This might have a set of Thor Auto-matic hubs on it, but I can’t tell for certain.

“V-6, 227 Conversion, hard top and hard doors included, and tow bar”

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John’s Cutlas Selective Hub Rebuild

• CATEGORIES: Builds, Features, How To • TAGS: This site contains affiliate links for which I may be compensated.

John recently rebuilt a set of Cutlas Selective Hubs, the type with the knob that rotates to engage and disengage the hub. There appear to be at least two styles of these hubs, one with a flat top and one with a groove, so that a tool (or improvised tool) can be used to help engage, disengage the hub.

This exploded overview from 1961 shows how the parts assemble (see the full brochure below this post):

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As you can kind of see from this diagram, there are two sections: 1) is the hub cap that holds the knob and the spring in place (from part 107-2 in the middle and everything to the right of it) and 2) the hub base (part 108-2 and everything to the left of it).

John wrote, “Overall I’d say these are my favorite hubs I’ve worked on so far. I have a pair of Warn hubs (with the tiny needle bearings) and a pair of Selectro hubs (big chrome knob type). The Warns seemed like a real pain to rebuild since the needle bearing were in rough shape. And the Selectro hubs, while very easy to operate, were probably the weakest design I’ve seen.”

Here’s a look at John’s finished product, as it’s the best example a complete hub next to a hub with the top separated from the base:

cutlas-hub-groove-rebuild-john8-lores

I went with a 2 tone paint job just for fun. If it doesn’t last for any reason I’ll end up with the whole thing gloss black and a chrome knob. The body was so badly pitted there was no saving the original finish

HUB CAP:

We’ll start with the hub’s cap first. John provided the following note: “To remove the coupling piece (part 102-2 Coupling) from the chrome cap (with the cutlas knob) you have to line it up right with the correct groove, then push down firmly against the spring inside (part 110-2 coupling spring). While pushing down spin the coupling, and then the coupling spring will pop the coupling right out and its free.”

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With the inner portion of the cap apart, you can see the coupling ring, the coupling, the coupling cam spring (part 107-2) and the coupling cam pins (parts 105-2).

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