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Welcome to eWillys.com, a website for vintage jeep enthusiasts. I update this website nearly every day with jeep deals, jeep history, interesting reader projects, jeep related info, and more.
These quick searches can help you find things on eBay. People list in the wrong categories all the time, so don't be surprised to see brochures in the parts area for example.
The links to posts below show jeeps grouped by models, condition, and other ways. Some of these jeeps are for sale and others have been sold. If you are unsure whether a vehicle is still for sale or not, email me at d [at] ewillys.com for more info.
There are plenty of interesting, unusual, historic and surprising stories related to Jeeps and their owners. In addition, some of these features have nothing to do with jeeps. This link will display all featured stories starting from the latest.
Looking for parts and not sure where to go? There are a variety of large and small new and used parts sellers both online and offline.
Importantly, the allure of buying a project jeep can be romantic. The reality of restoring a jeep can be quite different, expensive and overwhelming without the right tools and resources. So, tread carefully when purchasing a "project". If you have any concerns about buying a vintage jeep, or run across a scam, feel free to contact me for help, comments or concerns .
UPDATE: **Still Available**
(11/07/2016) Looks like it has some rear hubs.
“1951 Willyz Jeep with original motor that has been overhauled. Heavy duty radiator as well.
Gauges installed, new seats and steering wheel. Original wheea with new tires.
Runs great!”
https://dallas.craigslist.org/ndf/snw/6141377877.html
UPDATE **SOLD** Was $8500.
(08/09/2016) Seller just repainted the jeep. It includes an overdrive. Looks like a Meyer half cab.
“This 1958 Willys CJ6 was my dads he got it in the 70 & use it just for hunting. It’s a three speed w/an overdrive. Its all original with sum New Parts> Dashboard, Speedometer & Gauges, locking Glove Box W/charger for phone etc. Seats, New brakes & Wheel Cylinders, Master Cylinder, Carburetor, New Winch. The paint job was done w/spray paint cans about a 100 cans 4 different colors & under coating.
I have all the old part that will go with the buyer.”
UPDATE: **SOLD** Was $2400.
(04/25/2017) Has a rear PTO. Needs some works, but runs and drives.
“Early production (or so I am told) CJ2A Jeep, has a power take off (PTO) on it too! 3 speed stick, 4 wheel drive hi/low range. It runs! It drives! It stops! That is about it though… It carries heavy “patina” on the body/tub which is to say it is very rusty-you can see the ground through the floor… Could be the basis for some sort of crawler project. Certainly could be restored as it appears that any part you want is available either used or new /reproduction, even complete bodies can be had. Depends on how much money you want to spend. I have done the following: new soft brake lines, new master cylinder, new wheel cylinders, new radiator hoses, thermostat, radiator cap, spark plug wires. It is not street legal at this time primarily because none of the lights work. With some brake lights and new tires you could drive it as it is I think. If you want something to bomb around on your own property you wouldn’t have to do a thing. One should not think about trying to drive it home in it’s current state, should be trailered. Comes with two extra sets of axles/differentials and a set of extra leaf springs too. I have the original selectmatic locking hubs and it has vintage Warn locking hubs on it now.’
UPDATE: Price dropped to $4500.
“1946 Jeep Willys with a cj7 frame built 350 with 31″ tires custom exhaust headers an intake possible trade depending on what u got looking for a bigger mud toy or nice truck to drive”
https://flint.craigslist.org/cto/6130673425.html
A project.
“Willys jeep. 1940s vintage complete minus front wheels. Engine looks complete. oil pan is included but not installed. Wyoming vehicle so minimal rust.”
https://wyoming.craigslist.org/pts/6142049484.html
Lots of mods.
“Does not run has a v8 need work 2000 have title”
https://portland.craigslist.org/yam/cto/6142294230.html
No obvious rust.
“1948 Willy Jeep
Price: $9999.99 (You know…$10,000 and I give you change)
Very nice toy. I have rebuilt it about 95% “original” with only slight “modern” aspects. Runs and looks good, but NOT a museum piece. This is a “runner”.
This unit was issued civilian, but I chose to rebuild it as military.
I just don’t have time to play with it much anymore. Funny how work gets in the way of…. Fun?
Let me know if you would like to have a look.
NO checks, money orders or “sad stories”. Cash only.
Drop me an email.”
https://seattle.craigslist.org/oly/cto/6136480856.html
UPDATE **SOLD** Was $1895.
“Hello, I have a CJ3B project for sale, It includes the body as seen in photos, new frame with springs. This is a new frame (a reproduction from Acme Jeep Parts) not a sandblasted old frame. I have installed Saginaw steering using Jeep Parts from a 1971 Jeepster Commando, is a very good installation, and a trailer hitch make from 3/8 plate, so it is plenty strong and looks nice. Also, the front bumper is made out of 1/4 steel plate that I had bent to look like a stock bumper, so it is really strong over a stock bumper. This is a very good start for a project, and I also have other Jeep parts for sale if interested in building a solid Jeep project. This project comes with the original VIN plate for registration, but this project is being sold with a bill of sale only. I can deliver this Jeep within 100 miles for fuel costs both ways.”
UPDATE II: Add are some instructions (thanks Terry!) for installing DJ-3A seats:
======================
ORIGINAL POST UPDATE MAY 2017: I’ve added a couple pics at the end and included a discussion on the extra channel DJ-3As have.
Last fall, when disassembling Rusty, I thought it was odd that the 2/3 1/3 seats had been mounted on wood blocks. I assumed this had been done by the previous owner to raise the seats.
Yesterday, I discovered that Patterson’s passenger seat was loose. When I examined it more carefully, I learned that it was loose because one of the wood blocks under the seat had broken. I can only conclude that all DJ-3A’s with 2/3 1/3 seats were mounted on wood blocks? Or maybe only the early ones?
The photo below shows the passenger seat tilted forward. The front of it is mounted in a way that allows it to pivot forward. The mounts are bolted through a piece of wood, then through a piece of cloth, through the body, and into a welded bolt. The rear of the seats rests on the two mounts at the back of the well. The long piece of wood is a well-seasoned (at least 45 years old) and stained piece of oak that will work perfect for replacement blocks.
Unlike the passenger seat, the rear of the driver’s seat rests on two posts; slide onto the ends of the posts are rubber feet. Those rubber feat sit on blocks of wood also. 
A close up of the rubber foot. The hole is 1 inch in diameter, so I ought to be able to find rubber feet to replace these tired ones.
This shows how great the floor on this DJ is.
Another angle. Blocks 1, 4, 5, and 6 were the same size. Blocks 2 and 3 were larger and screwed down to the body. The rear 2/3’s seat rested atop those blocks.
I’ve drilled cut and drilled the blocks. They are ready for installation. I plan to add a thin piece of rubber under the blocks. Once I remove the rusted end of one bolt that broke, I’ll be able to reinstall the seats.
If you take a look at wood block #1 and block #6 there’s something curious. While the body area under wood block is similar to a CJ-3A, the body area under #6 has an additional channel (btw, we’ve yet to document any under DJ-3A body channels with wood in them).
This is the passenger side with the extra channel and a welded bolt.
No channel on the driver’s side even though there is a bolt welded there. 
Finally, the DJ-3As used wood blocks between the frame and transmission crossmember.
Another thing I got accomplished recently was the rebuilding of Rusty’s T-96 transmission. It’s been a couple decades since I’ve rebuild a T-90, but I think a person could follow a T-90 side shift guide when rebuilding the T-96 (I didn’t think of this until after I was done — instead I used an old rebuild manual from the late 60’s that has rebuilds of 35 different styles of transmissions). Once again, I thought I had more pics, but I didn’t. So, this isn’t a step-by-step overview.
I took this photo at the beginning of the tear-down to remember which way the speedometer gear should face. The lack of a transfercase is part of what makes this rebuild different from most other jeep transmissions.
Here’s the transmission with the input shaft pulled forward. My first gear and second gears were a bit worn. 
Once I removed all the gears, I discovered the reverse gear had a broken tooth. 
Close up of broken tooth. Thankfully, Charles Tate had sent me a box of T-96 parts that included a reverse gear. I was also able to replace the entire bottom cluster, first gear, and second gear. That saved me some money!
To remove the side shifters, a pin has to be tapped out. I was able to remove the 2/3 gear shifter, but not the first/reverse unit. Since there was no critical reason I could see for removing the first/reverse mechanism, I left it as is and cleaned up the housing.
Normally, I’d paint the housing before assembly. However, with time being an issue and lacking enough warmth on the rebuild day to properly paint it, I will paint it at a later date. 
One other unique thing about the T-96: it requires the use of a special speedometer cable that is also used for Jeepsters and wagons.
UPDATE: **SOLD** Was on eBay.
That’s an SAS-esque jeep.
“1943- Willys “radio jeep” during U.S. Army maneuvers “somewhere” in Oregon. Photo measures approx. 7″ x 9″”
UPDATE: **SOLD** Was Make Offer.
Seller testing the market for this CJ-2A-truck.
“Just seeing if I can get what I want for it.
Rebuilt;
Engine 2.2
Transmission 3 speed
Trasfer case 2 speed
Front and rear axles
All stock 1947-48 parts
It’s about 95 percent complete. Just needs a few things, but it’s just sitting in storage. It is drivable”
UPDATE: **SOLD** Was $15,000.
Has a replacement body. Has a Warn OD.
“48 willys jeep, 4 cylinder engine, army tires, 4 stick operation with auxiliary 2 speed overdrive. Very nice piece in superb condition.”
UPDATE: **SOLD** Was $6000
(07/26/2016) The seller believes the jeep is original, but it has an M-38-like windshield and a body with WWII glove box. So, it’s a custom build, but one that appears to be in good shape.
“Regrettably I am selling my 1948 Willys Jeep because we have enlarged our family and need the money. This was a barn find a little over a year ago in New Mexico. Jeep runs and drives great, only 2 owners, body is rust free and has a good paint job. I have done a few things like tune up, new carb, plug wires ect… Jeep is almost all original except for the brand new off road wheels and tires and 12 volt upgrade. Comes with soft top and doors and tow bar. Please text if you are interested price $6000obo. More pics on request. Will give a $500 discount to any active or veteran military.”
This has the large speedo, so likely not a 1953 as listed by seller.
“1953 willys jeep1953 cj3.running jeep,hurricane motor.new brakes all new metal work on body.frame in excellent shape.if you are interested in a project90% done.garaged past13 years.feel free to make a respectable offer.many new parts shocks motor gone over.”
https://westernmass.craigslist.org/cto/6131579576.html
UPDATE: **SOLD** Was $8500.
“Jeep 1952 M-38
Winter cab with heater
53,000 miles
radio
excellent condition
Parade ready
Military paint”
Needs an ignition switch. Has a Meyer hardtop.
“Rare CJ 6 Extended
Good condition
Hard Top with all windows and doors
6 cyl runs but needs a ignition switch
Clean Title
Must be picked up. No Shipping”
https://topeka.craigslist.org/cto/6136957662.html
It would be interesting to know if this was a new one or an older one, such as a Jewels. No desciption provided.
https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/cto/6140431004.html
Rusty, but runs.
“1948 willys cj2a. Runs and drives . I have it on the road. It has rust and some rot. Drive it like it is or restore it. 12 volt system.’
https://knoxville.craigslist.org/cto/6131067449.html
Has some updates.
“-1969 Buick V6 225 rebuilt less than 10,000 miles ago
-1973 CJ5 transmission
-T18 transfer case
-Posi-traction rear end
-10 watt CB
-Upgraded stereo and speakers
-Alarm system
-Buck shot tires
-Front disc brakes, 11 inch rear drum brakes
-Custom, upgraded driveline
-Frame boxed at stress points
-Warn 8k Lb Winch
-Bikini top
-Rear tow cargo carrier
-Fog lights
-Power steering
-Always stored in the garage
-Willys M38
-Tow bar”
https://portland.craigslist.org/clc/cto/6127395851.html
UPDATE: **SOLD** Was $950.
“This 1948 T3-C (S/N#18707) is as an excellent restoration candidate. There’s very little bad about the trailer. I’d say the biggest deal are some non-stock holes drilled into the body. Easily filled back in with MIG/TIG and grinder. The floor is very solid but intervention is suggested to stop the surface rust which is just beginning to pit the steel. There is no rust though anywhere on this trailer. Correct rims, original tires hold air. Springs in perfect shape. Top rails are straight as an arrow. Fenders are in fantastic shape. Stake pockets are not bent. Nice tail gate. No bondo anywhere. The data plate is there but not easy to read.
I have all of the internals for the fulton coupler which come with it, however I do not have the correct 8 sided knob (I have a 4 sided knob which will get the job done). The trailer and tailgate chains are not original but easily procured. The rear lights (operable) and reflectors are not original (yet functional) and will take some time and searching for the correct parts….but that’s half the fun!
Continue reading
It’s rough.
“For Sale: Antique Vintage 1946 Willys Jeep CJ2A for Parts – Tires Hood Engine Tranny
This 1946 Willys Jeep CJ2A has a lot of good parts. The body is not in good condition, but it has good tires and rims, hood, transmission, engine (but has not been run for many years)..”
https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/ank/for/6131060038.html
UPDATE: Price dropped to $1760.
It’s missing some items that would help identify it as a 1945 (tool indents, column shift, and correct windshield to name a few).
https://killeen.craigslist.org/cto/6107636272.html
“For Sale: 1945 CJ2A VEC; (“very early civilian” low sequence numbered chassis). Clear Texas Blue Title. Title matches the VIN tab on the firewall, which is also OEM, very clean, and legible.
No L134 flathead motor installed, L-head motor goes with the jeep, it is a complete motor, but it will need rebuild. Intake, exhaust, carb and alternator are still in the engine bay; all the components in the jeep go with the jeep.
T-90 Transmission has pristine internals, looks rebuilt, all four gears are pristine. T-3 transfer case and all linkage and brakes are complete and look very clean on the inside. Chassis is rolling on OEM 16 inch rims. Continue reading
Yesterday I assembled Rusty’s column shifter. In my head, I took all kinds of photos. One in particular I took (again in my mind) showed the layout of all the parts prior to assembly. Alas, somehow that photo never made it onto my phone!
The DJ-3A shifter is slightly different from a VEC CJ-2A shifter. I can’t say how much it differs from a Jeepster or wagon column shifter. But, i can say that following these VEC CJ-2A instructions were very helpful.
After laying out the parts (and not taking a photo) I began the assembly process by learning how to install the horn wiring. After looking up how to do it on a 3B (thanks CJ-3B Page!), it turned out to be quite easy.
Step 1) Thread some of my grandfather’s wire through steering shaft.
Step 2) Attach the wire to the horn wire end. In this case, I ran it through wire connector and then bent it so that the wire would not pull back out of the connector. 
Step 3) Pull the wiring carefully through the end of the shaft. 
With the wire installed, next on the list was assembling the shifter. The first step involved installing a washer, a spring, and a second washer onto the column shift tube Next, the interior shift lever must be screwed onto the shift housing. Then, slide the shift housing onto the column shift tube, pushing it far enough up so that a special metal pin can be inserted. Once that is done, you have to weld the end of the tube to the pin to secure it.
Another item I tackled yesterday was Patterson’s windshield, specifically the twisters and a rear view mirror.
It wasn’t until yesterday that I realized Patterson didn’t have a rear view mirror. Fortunately, I had the mount from Rusty and a nearly correct mirror thanks to Chris McKay. This is before I added the mirror:
And after the mirror. 
Next I addressed a couple of broken twisters. These are one of the unique features of a DJ-3A Convertible. The windshield is nearly like a CJ-3B, accept for the way the convertible top is supposed to attach to the windshield. Instead of a sliding mechanism, it uses those twisters. Two of Patterson’s twisters were broken. I had a few that I removed from Rusty (most of Rusty’s were broken), so I installed two of those onto Patterson. 
The windshield is now complete and ready for a convertible top.
