Andy shared this trailer from a truck bed for sale.
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1694015731338410
“Make a good off road trailer or build overland trailer out of it. Has good w/o tailgate 750 obo”
Andy shared this trailer from a truck bed for sale.
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1694015731338410
“Make a good off road trailer or build overland trailer out of it. Has good w/o tailgate 750 obo”
Unclear what value is here.
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/981674370324569
“Turns over never tried to start I’m selling it for someone no regi $3,000 obo”
This might make an interesting build. Andy shared this one.
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/643107610824073
“A willys pickup converted to a roadster pickup with a jeepster split windshield on a 4×4 chassis, no running gear, cab & bed***have 4 fenders, hood grille, tailgate & all panels ,***NO TITLE* BOS ONLY *** blue frt clip is SOLD ** ANXIOUS SELLER”
Andy shared this Ran-When-Parked truck. It’s got a boom on the front.
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/920712829759965
“1954 Willys Pickup. Truck was parked 15-20 years ago. It ran when it was parked. Title in hand. No Trades- Cash only”
Unclear how much value is here.
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/791687206267627/
“1958 Jeep Willys FC-17. $3500 OBO. Located in Harrisonville, MO. Text Bill for info 816, 365/5535”
I had this post completed, but that was before I realized this may have a $16k price tag (I’m unsure on the exact price). Anyway, I thought the rear bumper was unusual. This has a Kelly hardtop.
https://www.facebook.com/groups/247270289549336/permalink/1525650755044610/
“4 sale 1953 M38A1 runs and drives needs brakes only all original. Location Coffeeville ms 38922”
I spent the last two days rewiring the switch and control boxes. That turned out fine, but the well pump is still only responding in bits. I believe it to be the well pump itself. So, on Monday I’ll be getting the pump folks out here.
Meanwhile, we initiated operation pasture-water-to-garden-system. Well, that might not have the best mission title, we did successfully tap into an irrigation line we weren’t using anymore and use it to push water to our garden watering systems. This will make our watering tasks much simplified again (and by “our” I mean Ann’s).
Here’s the manifold I built today. This irrigation junction used to water a portion of the pasture with unground sprinklers, but we removed that line of sprinklers in favor of a pod watering system, which we like.
Here is where the hoses are going:
And, as you can see, all that work is worth while, because Ann gets to use her Country Jacuzzi (aka a cattle trough). Losing the water hasn’t all bad
Oh joy of joys! Yesterday our well pump stopped working. I called the pump service folks to diagnose the issue, but they couldn’t get me on the schedule until Tuesday. Ugh.
So, instead of working the FC, or anything else, I have been taking crash courses in learning how the our well pump system works (thank YouTube) at the wiring/capacitor/relay/switch level. After exploring the box with my voltmeter, in the pump control box I diagnosed a bad capacitor, so that was progress, but couldn’t readily locate one near me for sale, so I ended up buying a new pump control box and rewiring it in place. That went well (unintended pun). The pump started, but doesn’t continue running (starting the pump differs from running the pump amperage wise).
My next idea was to check out the box below the pump. It contained two switches, controlled by different mechanisms, that turns on and off the electricity to the pump control box. It’s a box I’ve never opened (never needed to open). I was pretty shocked at the condition of the connectors; the leads are corroded and/or bad (see closeup). It may be the case that the corrosion is effecting the ability to feed the pump with enough amperage. So, Friday morning’s task is to locate new switches, then redo the wiring in the box. Fingers crossed this works!
Thankfully, we have access to the neighbor’s well, via multiple hoses, so we can fill pots with water, keep our cows watered, and water the garden.
While much of the nation is getting hotter, our Pac Northwest weather is absolutely beautiful, with highs in the low 70s to high 80s over the next week. I’m making good progress on the Tour Jeep, so will focus on that rather than eWillys updates for the remainder of the week. Moreover, our internet has been dogged with slow download speeds all day; not sure why that is.
I had hoped to get to the brakes over the weekend, but instead of receiving a braking flaring kit, I was sent a refrigeration flaring kit. The difference is the refrigeration kit doesn’t include the parts to make double or bubble flares. So, I set that kit back and ordered another one. I hope to address the brakes Tuesday afternoon.
One thing I realized I didn’t have was a wiring schematic for an FC-170. I found a couple things online, but not what I was hoping to find. Then I remembered that back in 2013 I won a printed FC-170 schematic sign. So, that FC-Roundup door prize finally came in handy!
Once the wire weave arrives, I’ll be able to finally run the wiring. So, hopefully by later this week I’ll have most of the wiring in place.
Progress on the FC continues, of course slower than I’d like. First up, I’ve located a local upholstery shop that’s supposed to be good with vintage automobile stuff, so will be taking the seats to them and seeing what they can do. Thanks to Steve, I also have a line on patterns from a shop he worked with in Iowa, so that may save some money, too.
I’ve begun installing things on the FC. First up was the parking lights, then the new electric wiper motor. For a central ground, I’m using the old parking brake bracket, which will also hold a bracket for the brake MC remote reservoirs, which sit under the dash (no pics of that just yet).
Next I installed the brake MC and pedal bracket. One thing that I never tested (oops) was wether the existing brake nuts fit the new Wildwood MC (Of course they were a different size .. ugh). I will either use adapters or cut and reflare the lines with new, smaller brake nuts (most likely I’ll do the latter).
While I waited on solving the brake nut issue, I decided to work on installing the e-brake. One known issue was that the original Explorer body mount had to be removed, which I was okay with because I want the body mounts to be aligned with the bed’s front two roll bar loops, so I’d planned to move them anyway.
Now the challenge is to connect the 1/4″ finely threaded bolt from the ebrake to the original parking brake cable end. I want the solution to be adjustable (be able to turn the nut to tighten or loosen slightly) and I think I have found the answer in the form of a Dorman e-brake bracket. But, we’ll see how it fits …
This shows the bolt (with nut) from the e-brake vis-a-vis the stock parking brake bracket (which is actually broke, so needs to be removed anyway). The circle shows the location where the roll cage crosses the frame, so clearance will be necessary to allow the e-brake to work (Prob hole in the bracket).
Finally, since the FC is already equipment with a hitch receiver and since it might be handle to be able to a trailer with it. One of my pet peeves is crazy wiring splices in the back of vehicles to allow for towing. So, I’ll be running wires to a terminal block at the rear which I can use to add a 4 of 7 pin plug if need be. the bracket is built and ready to be mounted. The wires will then be color coded to a typical RV 7-pin setup, but I need to confirm our trailers are wired that way.
I expect more progress over the weekend.