emailNeed to contact me and don't have my email? Click on email button.
Welcome to eWillys.com, a website for vintage jeep enthusiasts. I update this website nearly every day with jeep deals, jeep history, interesting reader projects, jeep related info, and more.
These quick searches can help you find things on eBay. People list in the wrong categories all the time, so don't be surprised to see brochures in the parts area for example.
The links to posts below show jeeps grouped by models, condition, and other ways. Some of these jeeps are for sale and others have been sold. If you are unsure whether a vehicle is still for sale or not, email me at d [at] ewillys.com for more info.
There are plenty of interesting, unusual, historic and surprising stories related to Jeeps and their owners. In addition, some of these features have nothing to do with jeeps. This link will display all featured stories starting from the latest.
Looking for parts and not sure where to go? There are a variety of large and small new and used parts sellers both online and offline.
Importantly, the allure of buying a project jeep can be romantic. The reality of restoring a jeep can be quite different, expensive and overwhelming without the right tools and resources. So, tread carefully when purchasing a "project". If you have any concerns about buying a vintage jeep, or run across a scam, feel free to contact me for help, comments or concerns .
UPDATE: **SOLD** Was $6000
The pictures are a little far away, but it looks pretty good. This jeep is located somewhere along the coast of Oregon.
“1952 WILLYS MB FLAT FENDER JEEP, BUICK V6, OVERDRIVE CHEVY STEERING, NEW TOP, FROM NEVADA ORIGINALLY, GREAT SHAPE, $6000.00 OBO, MAY BE INTERESTED IN TRADE???”
It didn’t take me long this morning to figure out why I was having problems with the clear coat last night. The clear coat was too thick for the sprayer, even with the reducer. So, I cut it a litter more, reducing it from 4:1 to 3.5:1. That helped immensely. So, I sprayed another layer of clear coat, which helped improve some of the areas I was most concerned about.
That said, I spotted a several areas on the fender from last night where the clear coat clogged and then let loose. Fortunately, the spots are all on areas that go under the hood … whew!
This morning I spent a little more time figuring out the color problem. After doing some research, I believe that I received Teal Green rather than Aqua Blue. Putting the pictures I show in this post against the colors convinces me that it is Teal Green. However, the seller of the paint is adament that I got the color I ordered. He claims the problem is that the internet colors aren’t accurate. I think he’s full of shit.
As I expected, painting was an adventure. I started the day running around to get last minute items: a cheap paint suit, new mask cartridges, and some other misc items. Then, I chose the paint guns I wanted to use. After the paint cup wouldn’t come off one of the guns I selected, I audibled to the paint gun I used to paint my last jeep (I was very happy I had the backup guns).
I wiped down the body and body parts, mixed my primer, and went to work. At first the painting went well, but after a while, the gun started acting up a little. And, of course, I managed to spot several spots that i somehow missed during the prepping process that needed either a little filler or a little sanding.
Once the primer was on, I got a little water and some 400 grit sand paper and gently ran over the primer, cleaning up the areas as I went.
Next was the paint. I mixed the reducer and hardener with the paint and went to work. I got the first pass done and was relatively happy. I waited about half an hour dand went to work again. As I was painting the grille, which was hanging against the wall, some gray primer blew off the plastic and landed right on the grille. While I cussed the primer, I held the gun too long near the driver side turn light area. Unfortunately, I couldn’t tell I’d done this until later (my light was kind of iffy by that point). After the second coat, I grabbed a light and started walking around the body parts. That’s when I started seeing a variety of spots I hadn’t gotten. So, with a spotlight in one hand and a spray gun in the other, I circled all the parts for another round.
After letting the paint dry, I went to the clear coat. By now, it was dark outside and my light wasn’t good at all. I did my best to shoot anyway, but after spraying everything, I could see there were a variety of missed spots. So, I decided to halt and pick back up in the morning when the light would be better.
The paint ended up being darker than I expected it would be. But, it should look good. The pictures here don’t really capture the color well. There are definitely a few areas I sprayed a little too heavily, but it really isn’t worth it to me to sand them down and start over. Hey, it’s a jeep and I plan on scratching it and being rough on it. I expect it will need painting in a few years anyway.
One of the smarter things I did was purchase a cheap fan and purchase a cheap heater filter. I mounted (see pic to the right) the fan in the plastic to pull air out of the paint booth and then taped the filter in front of the fan to catch the paint. Wow! The filter got much dirtier than I thought it would.
This is a running GPW for under $2500 that appears to be in good shape. I haven’t seen too many of these at this price.
“1942 Willys Jeep – Ford built, hinged headlites, Brakes work, engine & driveline orig., driven frequently, Folding top with doors, extra tranny, tires new. ph 432-6873”
I had hoped to complete painting this weekend, however sore ribs from a hit I took playing basketball slowed me down a bit. Today, I felt a little better, so I spent the day putting together a paint booth and taping off the body. It’s hardly state of the art or a monument to high quality design, but it will get the job done.
My friend Lary dropped by yesterday with a larger compressor and an assortment of paint guns for me to use. He was the person who suggested a website from which to buy some paint, but rather than the Urethane he intended for me to get, I ended up with an Acyrlic Enamel. When he discovered what I had bought, he was very concerned, as he felt it’s a more difficult paint with which to work, especially with the paint being a metallic paint. So, the two of us hovered over the various cans and he provided me many different tips on working with the paint, suggesting which paint guns to use and more.
My next step is to make a run to home depot to get one more sheet of plastic for the floor. Then, I’ll grab some degreaser and do one final clean up of the body parts.
Below are some pics of the paint booth:
With just over 7,000 miles, this jeep appears to be in great shape. Lots of pics to check out at eBay.
“This 1962 Willys Jeep is one of a kind. Only 2 owners and has 7085 original miles. It has been trailered from Texas to New Mexico during the last 45 years and when not in use it has been stored in a barn. Equipped with fully operational gearboxes and winch. No rust . Original paint, glass, and interior. Excellent mechanical condition. It is not stickered but has Antique tags. What you see is what you get-no hidden surprises with this vehicle.”
The seller inherited this jeep, but appears not to know much about them.
“1944 Willys Jeep. Engine runs good. Tires are excellent. Brakes needs some work. I inherited this vehicle some time ago and just don’t have the storage or time to devote to it. I’m listing it without a price because I really don’t know where to start. I’m willing to consider all offers.”
UPDATE: **SOLD** Was $1000.
For $1000, looks like a decent project. Tires and rims look good, body appears pretty good, top looks in good shape.
“1964 Willy’s Jeep Project, no engine in the jeep at this time, but has (2) engines that come with it. (1) 4 cyl. with bad crank and new carb. (1) Buick v6 engine runs great. Has tranny in it. Has an older PTO wench.
Good vinyl top and doors. Nice looking wheels and ok MUDTRACK steel radial tires. Overall decent looking jeep (BLACK) for the year Pictures available upon request $1,000.00”
This is a good looking CJ-3A, which appears to be wearing a MB body rather than a CJ-3A body. Note the side cutouts, the jockey box in the dash, the lack of a tailgate, and the storage areas in the rear wheel well. If this is an original MB body, it’s is great condition.
“NICE 1949 WILLYS WITH 18,600 MILES, NOT ALL JACKED UP IN THE AIR, YOU CAN’T TELL IT DOESN’T HAVE A FLATHEAD FOUR CYLINDER BY LOOKING AT IT BUT WITH THE BIGGER MOTOR, BETTER TRANSMISSION AND DISC BRAKES MAKES IT MORE DRIVER FRIENDLY IN TODAYS TRAFFIC AND BARELY HAVE TO GIVE IT ANY GAS AT 50 MILES PER HOUR. FRONT DISC BRAKES, NEW TIRES, FOUR SPEED TRANSMISSION AND CHEVY 350 CI. WITH FOUR BARREL CARB. RUNS AND DRIVES GREAT WITH PLENTY OF POWER…”
I stopped by Buck’s 4×4 shop here in Boise yesterday and picked up some BDS Shocks. My measurements showed I needed a pair of shocks that had a compressed size of approx 15″ and a maximum size of approx 25″. It only took them a few minutes to find what I needed. Best of all, the price was right — under $100.
Now that I had shocks, I could finally create the front shock mounts, something I’ve put off for a few months. I knew I wanted something similar to what I used last time for shock mounts. On my last jeep I took some 1/2″ steel that was 4″ wide and bent it using a 10′ tube pipe and dad’s huge vice (firmly attached to a 1000lb bench). The result were mounts that attached to the side of the frame, rounding up and out. I liked the effect, so for this jeep I wanted to do something similar. Instead of the steel I used last time, I took a piece of 1/4″ x 5.5″ x 6′ piece of steel I salvaged from my sisters’ farm and created my shock mounts from that.
An ewillys reader named Paul is selling a 1951 M-38. With only 8,700 original miles, it’s in excellent shape. He’s asking $11,500.
“I have a 1951 willys M38 army Jeep for sale that only has 8,700 original miles. It is in very good shape with no damage or rust to the body. The paint is also very good. The jeep has underwater equipment, though I don’ t know if it is complete, but it appears complete to me. It is completely stock except for an aftermarket new top and five off road military tires. It also comes with extra parts. I’m asking 11,500 or best offer.”
Brian sent me an update on his adaptation of a wranger swinging assembly into his CJ-3B.
“I was going to use a dual master cylinder kit, but instead I located a set of swing pedals from a early Wrangler. With the extra 4 inches of cowl height in the CJ-3B, I found they would fit. This provided me two advantages: (1) the assembly came with a brake booster and (2) I can use the hydraulic clutch kit from Novak to simplify life the install.
Here’s stock assembly from a early Wrangler.
UPDATE: Was $2500. **SOLD**
” 1965 Willy’s Kaiser High hood Jeep. Has a 1967 327 motor. Runs Great and only needs physical/body work. Has a brand new rear end also.”
UPDATE: **SOLD** Was $1300.
I can’t tell if it is running. No specifics listed. However, the body looks very straight. It appears to me to be a great deal.”
It looks like there’s some typical rust around the bottom of the door. Otherwise, looks good.
“1961 FORWARD CAB, 6CLY, 3SPD, 4X4. RUNS AND DRIVES GREAT! EXCELLENT WORKHORSE! SET UP FOR 9FT FLAT BED/ STAKE BED/ OR UTILITY BOX. NEEDS PAINT & GLASS. CALL DAVE @ 720-297-7028”
UPDATE: Was on eBay. **SOLD**
“This Jeep is being relisted from about 3 weeks ago. Up for sale is a 1946 Willys Jeep that I bought from an an elderly gentleman’s estate sale in February. This is a very early CJ2a that originally came with a column shift. I have not had the time to devote to rebuilding it and now I must sell it to make room for other vehicles. I got this jeep running with a basic tune up. It has a Buick 231 V6, power steering conversion and add on turn signals. This jeep does need work. The front left frame horn appears to have a slight tweak downward on the left side.”
UPDATE: **SOLD** Was on eBay
“1958/62 Willys DJ-3A (Dispatcher) 2WD Jeep. This jeep is a 1962 open body DJ3A. Tagged & titled as a 1958 DJ3A. Included is the original 1962 SN tag w/Jeep in case you wish to have new title issued by your state DMV. 1962 SN Tag does match number stamped on frame. actual mileage unknown. Jeep runs & drives good w/good power from RMC M38 military motor. I have no information on engine as far as amount of miles on it or any work done to it. Recently had mechanic installed new head gasket & he stated motor looked great inside for used eng.”
Brian sent me a great suggestion about my transmission gauge strategy. As you might remember, the style of gauges I purchased didn’t offer a transmission temperature gauge, so I decided I could use a water temperature gauge. So, my next question was how to do it? It was Brian’s suggestion to use a simple ‘T’ system. I liked the idea, so I hit Home Depot and $17 later I had what I needed.
I got a question from a reader about the wiring harness I used. After doing some research, I came to the conclusion that the harness I bought is probably being closed out, hence the drop in price. After doing the research, here’s what I learned.
KICKZ Harness (this is what I received in the mail):
http://www.thehoffmangroup.com/autoloc/details.lasso?itemid=KICKZ is a 15 fuse 38 terminal 22 circuit wiring harness. This is what I received. The MSRP is $388.70, you can purchase it from the Hoffman Group for $299 (web special price), you can purchase it through ez2wire (which appears to be nothing more than a pass through marketing group) for $219 regularly, and I got it via auction from ez2wire for $143 (plus shipping). So, that’s confusing! The KICKZ is definitely a barebones choice (no extra switches for example).
Want to upgrade your Dana 300 cheaply? You might try this seller.
“I have a pristine Teralo 4:1 gearset (dana 300) for sale. I pulled it out after breaking an output shaft. Teralow makes a stout reduction gear set, and this set has less than 1000 miles on it-2 1/2 wheelin seasons. There are no signs of wear, and no chips-looks brand new. I have the gearset, which sells for $600 new, and couple bearings. $275 .. http://www.trailquest.com/teralow/low300.shtml”
No, the painting didn’t take place this weekend. I’m still waiting to receive my paint …
One purchase I did make yesterday was some gauges. I decided to go with Equus gauges, 8200 performance series. Schucks had this set of gauges for only $39.99 (not on sale), so that saved me $35 on gauges that were already reasonably priced. So far, I’ve got a speedometer, oil pressure, voltage meter, water temperature and fuel gauge. The only downside is that they don’t make a transmission temp gauge. I decided that if I really want a temp gauge on the transmission fluid, then I think I can cheaply adapt a water temp gauge to measure the temp of the fluid as it flows from the tranny to the tranny cooler. I simply need to create a box that the fluid flows through into which I can screw the temp sensor (there seems to be no default place to put a temp gauge into a TH350).
UPDATE:**SOLD** Was $2000.
“This is one of jeep’s stranger creatures to be sure. it has 4 wheel drive with lockouts, a p.t.o. to power a cylinder which lifts the flatbed, very heavy leaf springs and 5.38 gearing in the diffs. drivetrain is a 6 cylinder flathead that runs good . tranny is a 3 speed manual this truck needs wood for the bed and various other details to be driven. truck has a good title .”
UPDATE: **SOLD** Was $5600.
This FC appears to be in pretty good condition, just the paint is a little faded.
“1962 Willys Jeep FC 170 DRW 1 Ton Truck. Original Title. Ask about propane conversion unit.”
I think the price is a bit high on this jeep, given it isn’t running and has no title, but if the price drops, this could be a reasonable project. It sounds like the project has a lot of new parts that just need to be put together, though I suspect, as usual, it will be a bit more complicated than that.
“You are bidding on a 1945 Willys MB Army Jeep that is three quarters restored. This jeep has $12,500.00 invested into it so far. The jeep has a new tub which sits on the chassis but has not been bolted down though new rubber mounts and bolts included in the sale. The motor and chassis are 100% restored. The motor, transmission, transfer case and rear end were completely rebuilt. The brakes are complete including all new components and master cylinder including all steel and rubber lines. It has combat wheels on all 4 corners and original looking WW2 tires….”
Update: The price is now $2000
This was for sale as part of a project a couple months ago.
“aluminum tub new 253-212-6047 ”