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Custom Flattie Olympia, WA $3000

• CATEGORIES: CJ-3A • TAGS: , This site contains affiliate links for which I may be compensated.

UPDATE: Price dropped to $3000.

Lots of upgrades, but still a project. It has a bobcat body with the passenger side gas inlet (life mine). I’d bet this is one of the early heavy bodies.

“42 willys flatty all glass body hood grill & fenders,bobcat products , smf motor needs rebuild no intake . ,t-150 3spd dana 20 transfer case dana 44 front alloy u-joints Detroit true trac with 5.38 ring &pinion , rear 44 welded 5.38 . 4 wheel disc brakes needs some tlc but great wheeler, also have 74 cj frame to go with. tires are 35-10.50-15 boogers three runs on them, no winch . my loss need to pay medical bills”

http://seattle.craigslist.org/oly/cto/4956003919.html

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13 Comments on “Custom Flattie Olympia, WA $3000

  1. Joe in Mesa

    Speaking of yours, Dave, we haven’t read any Biscuit updates in ages. …not that it sounds like you’ve had any time to spend on her. If only we (your readers) lived nearby, it would be fun to converge on your garage for a 2-3 day Biscuit Build Weekend and expedite your return to flatfender four-wheeling 🙂

  2. Roy1959CJ3b

    Joe that’s what keeping him up at nights thinking about all the free help!! ( I think they call it nightmares) 🙂

  3. mmdeilers Post author

    Joe,

    If it were in my garage I could make some progress, but having it 200 miles away makes it a challenge. (garage here in Pasco is pretty much a storage unit for Ann’s mother). And, when I do go to Seattle, I’ve first got to complete the ‘sonny-do’ list of items. During this last weekend my mother’s washer drain got clogged. I had to dig a thirty foot trench up to 3.5 foot deep to replace the drain hose (in the rain no less). I wasn’t much in the mood for jeep work after that!

    The good news (can’t remember if I mentioned this) is that I discovered the problem that had stumped me for months. The rear of the jeep had a lean. I replaced the springs, swapped the springs, swapped the tires, and more. Meanwhile, the front end remained level. I concluded the frame had gotten bent (but couldn’t imagine how).

    During my last visit I used some jacks to lift the jeep so I could determine exactly where the twist was. The crazy thing was when I put the jacks under the frame near the front springs, the rear leveled. After pondering how that could be I dropped the jeep, put the jacks under the front bumper, and jacked it back up. Once again, the rear leveled. It took a few more minutes of head scratching and staring before I finally figured out the problem. My front passenger tire is larger than the front driver tire. I bought all four tires as a set (used desert dogs), but somehow I ended up with 3 30″ and 1 31″ tires. What a DUH moment.

    With that issue resolved, I now must return to adjusting the transmission height so that it has the correct matching angle for the rear pinion. Once that is done I can start assembling everything.

    What I really need is a shop here in Pasco, but that just isn’t in the cards in the near future.

  4. Joe in Mesa

    That’s amazing about the one oversized tire! How frustrating. I’ll be very interested to see what you do to attain the correct matching angle for the rear pinion. Joel is facing the same challenge on the ’48 you found for us in Globe (my first Willys). He raised it about 3 inches AND put 31s on it. Our current thinking is to cut the “stops” from the rear axle so we can rotate the front of the rear differential upward, rather than change the trans or t-case mounting in any way.

    So you just need a shop/garage in Pasco? I need to play the lottery so I can help with that 😉

  5. Roy1959CJ3b

    Joe They built wedges for that, back in the good old days. (maybe still do) or have a machine shop make you some. Don’t ruin the pads on axle, in my opinion (for what’s that worth)

  6. Roy1959CJ3b

    Should add make them out steel and tack weld to the pad on axle. (then they won’t loosen up) If you need to change you can grind off tack welds, and not ruin the axle pads.

  7. mmdeilers Post author

    Wedges are one way to go, but I’ve also heard some negatives about them such as they can slip. Because my pads were custom, when I had to change my pinion angle, I altered my pads.

    However, in this case I can play with the engine and transmission angle and height, so I ought to be able to achieve the right angle without having to change the rear pinion. I will likely be adding a half inch spacer between the transfer case cross member and the frame. That’s what I’m guessing.

    I have an angle measurement tool I use to determine the angles. Does he have one?

  8. mmdeilers Post author

    Yeah, I never considered that idea. But I always have to do things the hard way. lol.

  9. Roy1959CJ3b

    you are right Dave they can slip. You beat me to it! 🙂 I might change my mind on down the line so that why I like steel pads and tack weld. Also could buy center bolts with long heads. (maybe not available anymore ) 🙂

  10. Roy1959CJ3b

    Dave you get paid a high wage in all the guys you make happy for this website!!! Sure doesn’t buy much gas or food!! lol 🙂

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