5 Comments on “Need to Remove a Rusty Bolt? Try a Candle and a Lighter”

1. SE Pennsylvania Steve December 14, 2016 at 7:38 am

   I’ve read about this on the cj2a forum but never tried it. I’ve used a lot of PB Blaster on seized parts and that usually works. One thing I tried that helped me remove the rear brake drum (along with the proper drum puller that has the legs that bolt onto the studs and pulls it forward) is Freeze-Off. The directions on the can say to spray it for 10-20 seconds, which I did on the center hub/axel area. That worked when PB Blaster didn’t.
2. Steve E. December 17, 2016 at 10:06 am

   Neat Trick! I can’t wait to try it some day.
   Everyone knows this, but it needs to be written: Don’t forget the left side has left-hand threads, unless the studs have been changed in the past. Look for the stamped “L” in the end of the stud. This applies to other old vehicles, too. Many times younger Jeep owners have called me and said they can’t get the wheels off. The first thing I tell them is the left side is different, which usually does the trick.

   I have a bigger problem. I have a parts Jeepster that has an old Ford rear end. It has bolts, not studs. There are two of those suckers I haven’t been able to get off. I always use anti-seize compound on my lug studs. It’s messy, but I have never had a problem.

   **Steve E.**
3. John Hartman December 17, 2016 at 11:57 am

   A cigarette lighter and candle wax doesn’t work where I live. The new kid in the shop was going to teach me that trick taking a threaded skid plate off a 5 inch shaft. There may have been other dynamics that he didn’t understand, but I enjoyed putting him in his place.

   Steve E. For your problem find Aero Kroil or Sili Kroil. Kano Laboratories. Internet or bearing distributor dealers. Spray it a couple times a day for a few days.

   If that doesn’t work heat the head of the bolt red hot, remove it, or try again.

   When that doesn’t work you cut or break the bolt off and drill and tap.

   I didn’t make these rules. That’s the way it is.

   John
4. Steve E. December 17, 2016 at 12:26 pm

   You are very humble about you knowledge. Thanks for sharing, John.

   **Steve E.**
5. John Hartman December 17, 2016 at 6:58 pm

   To expand on Steve’s comment about left hand threads. When I got my narrow track FC I go to take the tires off because it had brake problems. No lug nuts are ever this tight, I remembered and figured it out.

   I live in a perfect world and decide I’m going to put normal studs in. Take it to work and try to hammer out a stud. Typically they are “serrated” to secure them when you tighten the lug nut. It doesn’t move. The candle wax kid is helping me. He says just put in the press, we have a 30, 75, and 150 ton press. I told him no because I didn’t understand what was wrong.

   I didn’t ask the question, but somehow the answer appeared on the FC forum. I think it was Will that exposed what I couldn’t see.

   He said that after the studs are pressed in, the stud is swaged (some controversy on this word) to hold the brake drum and hub together. If you don’t grind this away before removing the stud you will destroy things.

   Pay close attention to what you are doing, especially when things are not working as expected.

   John