UPDATE: **SOLD** Was $3000.

It’s a project.

“Asking price as of now is $3k. DSS sells their full up rotating assemblies for nearly 2k, so with thousands in other parts, plus all of my time, material, VIN tags and title, etc, I feel this is reasonable. Bounce ideas off of me, doesn’t hurt to ask. Not taking trades. At all.

Will finish the rest of the ad a bit later, call or text if you have any questions as it is. Better to text, I only have my phone on me three hours out of the weekday. Call anytime on the weekends.

53 Willys CJ-3B body, narrowed 8″. No doors or OE windshield frame. Built a new tube windshield frame, seen in one of the pics. Also, the stringers that run from the firewall to the grill are just 1″ DOM with some FK heims on both sides. One end is LHT, other is RHT.

Frame-Front half is from a Suzuki Samurai, which I have VIN tags and title for. Rear is custom z-notch built from 2″x4″x0.188 (or.120″?) Frame horns added by me seen in a couple pics. All joints between the Sami frame and z-notch are fishplated on all four sides, and the z-notch is fishplated on the inside and outside in all 4 joint locations. The pics show them tacked on, however they’re fully welded now. I cut out all of the old Sami cross members and added in 2×4 members. Motor mounts are designed for a Ford 302, and whatever else has the same bolt pattern. Trans crossmember is designed for a Ford AOD, however I’m sure others will also fit. Body sits directly on frame.

Axles-Front is a Sami front end, with the 3rd member hole plated off. Rear is a Ford 9″ SF out of a bronco, 3rd member has 2.88s or some horrible gears like that.

Steering-Didn’t really do anything with the steering except finish welding up the supports. Has the Sami unpowered steering gear in it.

Suspension-Front uses inverted half-leaf springs. Rear is a triangulated 4 link, setup for 108% AS, with the bags all the way up (you’ll need to put in limiting straps). The rear bags are good, support up to 100psi (and plenty of weight). The solenoid to allow air in and out is switched and wired up. Can’t remember anything about the solenoid, but it was used for robot pneumatics. Works great.

Wheels/Tires-The front wheels are CJ or Sami wheels, don’t remember. They just have some shot tires on them for rolling. The rear wheels are brand new steelies, 15×8 or 10 if I remember correctly. After narrowing the body, there’s plenty of room between the tires and the body. The tires on the back are some Hoosier circle racing tires, just for test-fitting. Driveable, wouldn’t do it on a normal basis though. They are currently mounted on the wheels.

Motor stuff- Here’s where all the money is. I was getting things ready to build a sweet 302, but left before I could finish it. Also didn’t want the fresh built motor to sit for years, so I didn’t even bother building it. Here’s what I have. All parts are brand new.

DSS forged rotating assembly- Speed Pro forged pistons, L2482 (.030″ over). Intake valve reliefs were cut open for big valves, done by DSS I’m assuming. Not sure what kind of rods. DSS “Race Prepped” crank, ARP rod bolts, plus all bearings and whatnot. Also, Speed Pro ductile moly rings.

ARP head studs and ARP main bolts.

Comp Cams “Magnum” timing chain set. Uses a double-chain design, and all metal sprockets (stock ones were plastic)

Summit HEI distributor

Accel 300+ ignition box

Accel Superstock wires

Summit fuel pump, reg, and relay kit (105 gph version)

Summit aluminum race radiator w/ electric fan setup (bottom mounts through rubber grommets in the frame)

New filter relocation kit

Also have a used Edlebrock intake manifold. Nothing special, I think it’s just a Performer 302.

Other miscellaneous parts, like starter relay, Russel inline fuel filter, some electrical parts, etc. . .

Also have the old heads, old FI system, bunch of other useless crap unless you want to put a terrible FI system on a built motor.

I feel like I’m missing something, not sure what though. Anyways.

Will also come with 4 seats. 2 are plastic buckets, 2 are out of a Polaris Razor.”