A reader noted that according to Novak, a GM 4.3 Liter V-6 is too tall to easily fit into a low hood flatfender without modifying the hood. Now, I know this isn’t true as I’ve seen flatties with the engine installed.
Does anyone have any experience or advice about installing a GM V-6 into a flattie? I have not done it myself.
Here’s some additional information I dug up on the web:
- According to this thread, someone else read the same thing (that novak says the 4.3 liters won’t fit) http://www.greatlakes4×4.com/showthread.php?p=1567991.
- Here’s a builder who swapped a 3.8l buick for a 4.3liter, having to rework the steering in the process .. http://www.4×4wire.com/jeep/tech/steer/pieces02/
This guy is putting in a GM Central Port injected 4.3 V6 out of a 1993 S-10 in a Cj3b.
http://www.ewillys.com/wp-content/uploads2/builds_brian1.jpg
This photo from Novak looks to be a 2000 or newer V6 I believe the profile of this engine is higher than the CPI 4.3 V6. The guy doing this build used Novak’s engine mounts razed the engine to where the top of the injector manifold is level with the top of the spacer for the hi-hood. In a 2a the engine would sit 1 to1/2 inch under the hood. The center hood seam may strike the engine. All in all putting the pictured engine in a 2a or 3a could be done. However, tall spring might have to be used to get distance between the harmonic balancer and the front axle.
So, if I understand correctly then the Novak advice has more to do with the fuel and air induction system than anything else. I know folks have put fuel injected small block chevys in CJ2A or 3A’s and the block height and width of the 4.3 V6 should be the same as the V8. I’ve also seen pictures of carbureted 4.3 V6’s in the 2A & 3A’s. My goal with my Dj3A on a 47 2A chassis was to put a reliable and dependable fuel injected V6 in it. I was looking at the 4.3 as the best option for my goals. Based on what I think I’m reading is to go with a pre 2000 version of this engine? At least to fit it under the hood. I’m not obligated to Novak engine mounts, but I don’t want the engine hanging out the bottom of the chassis either. Thanks, I’d welcome any further insights anyone has to offer. Thanks again, this website has been a huge help already.
After a night of sleep I got up and realized my CPI would not fit in a 2a or 3a very well because I have 1.5 body lift. With out the body lift a “power budge” would be needed in the hood.
“Novak advice has more to do with the fuel and air induction system” Yes I believe so I would ask them. My engine is a CPI and Novak’s picture is a TBI. One of the big differences is how the air cleaner is mounted. The CPI air tube comes off the front of the engine and is low between the pulleys. The TBI is on top and I think you have to add up to 2” in height for the air tube. (I can not find my Advanced Adaptors catalog. AA has a section with engine heights and widths in it.) Dave can chime in on this: Builders of yesteryear of older 2a’s and 3a’s had the benefit of stock Rochester and Carter carburetors a long with low profile stock manifolds. A high-rise manifold sounds cool but it is “higher”
In a product review:
Novak’s engine mounts were easy to work with. I was able to clamp them the frame and move things around securely and are very adjustable. Short fall: the piece welded on to the frame for vertical height was too short when it came down to “final assembly” 1/3 of the mount is over the top of the frame and I used gussets to help beef things up (AT Novak’s suggestion Humm). I did not like that. Note: the vertical piece in the engine mount kit is not shown on Novak’s site Hummm.
Novak has a book on engine swapping. Do not buy it I will sum it with cliff notes: Engine swapping will cost you more than you think. Engine swapping will take more time you think. Get the whole donor vehicle! Repeat Get the whole donor vehicle! I took the wiring out of the Blazer. Glad I did the painless harness for my engine is $600.00